Making Friends - Boylston Bra by Orange Lingerie

If you've been following me for a while you would know that before I seriously started sewing my own clothes, I started bra making.  Talk about doing things backwards.

My love for Orange Lingerie's Boylston Bra is well known. It is my favourite bra pattern, it just fits so well and I adore the shape, and the straps.  I'm a sucker for a good fabric strap.

Anyway, it's been quite a while since I've made any bras and I was well overdue to get some new ones in my wardrobe. I had some floral scuba fabric left over from some leggings and decided that it would be perfect for a new bra.  I'm pleased to day I wasn't wrong.

I initially intended to make this bra without a foam lining and using 50 denier lining. For some reason I found this pretty impossible and my fabric kept stretching which resulted in puckering and all kinds of bad things, I became very, very good friends with my seam ripper before deciding in the end to just cut new pieces and use cut and sew foam for the lining.

 

I used navy powermesh for the back.  Powermesh is such an important material in the bra making process because it has the recover and gives the support which is required in order to have a well fitting bra. I used back cut and sew foam and elastics as it was what I had on hand.  I contemplated ordering navy but I'm trying hard to sew through my stash this year and I actually really like the way the black works with it.  i also used rose gold rings and sliders and added a double ring detail which may prove annoying.  Time will tell I guess.

 

I'm a sucker for a good floral and I'm so glad I decided to use up the scraps I had to make this bra. That is the beauty of bra making, that even scraps which wouldn't be considered useable in other cases can often come together to from a fantastic bra.

Of course what is the point of making a new bra if you don't turn it into a matching set? I'm a massive fan of the Tuesday Boyshort from Emerald Erin.  My most regularly worn underwear uses this pattern.  I can't recommend it enough.  I hacked the pattern sightly to include some of the floral fabric in it.  It just ties it together a little bit in my opinion.  I also overlocked the elastics on and then enclosed them.  I should have changed my overlocker thread but I honestly just didn't feel like it.  I'm a bit of a rebel like that.

I'm sure this set will get tonnes of wear.  There's nothing quite like a new matching set of handmade underwear to make you smile every time you put it on.

Boylston Bra - Getting Back in the Saddle

So I started the year with great plans to blog more, obviously life happened and if you follow me on instagram you will know that this year hasn't been the easiest for me. There's been some change - I left my first "real" job that I've known for the last four years and started a new adventure.  I've also gone back to uni and just got my first semesters marks back and had to remind myself that D is actually for distinction and means I really didn't fail!

However after a rough start I finally feel back in my groove, its only taken me until November!

I also feel like I've been holding back from blogging for a number of reasons, things like my photos not being good enough, or my makes not being up to scratch, however I've decided just to get on with it.  Not having a live in photographer makes things harder but a photo is better than no photo.  I was listening to an episode of the Love to Sew Podcast - which I highly recommend if you haven't checked out - and I think it sunk in.  Done is better than perfect.

Anyway onto the sewing!

A few months ago I noticed a group on facebook for my town for all things sewing, it's such a fantastic community!  We get together for bi-monthly sewing sessions and coffee dates.  It is so refreshing to get together with friends to talk patterns and stroke fabric.  It's really been a lovely addition to my life.

At our last sewing group I made myself a(nother) Boylston Bra by Orange Lingerie, its really become my TNT bra pattern (Which fits in quite well with the Sewcialists TNT month).  I'm meant to be giving a little bra making class at the next get together.

My previous Boylstons include - my Mermaid Bikini, my vintage floral bra, this little red one named after none other than Joan from Mad Men.

A few years ago Maddy of Miss Maddy Sews made this amazing pink floral Boylston and when I found the same fabric in Lincraft (I've also just realised apparently this fabric was in my stash for two years, oh well!) I knew I had to make on too.  Thankfully it turned out just as well as I hoped.

I lined the cups with cut and sew foam, I'd really recommend this is you're making a bra using satin (which overall I don't really recommend!).  The cut and sew foam gives the cups and nice structure and shape.

There ended up being some half decent unintentional pattern matching, which I'm pretty pleased with to be honest!  As always I added a little rose to the centre to cover up some not so pretty stitching. 

I used adorable rose gold rings and sliders for Sew Squirrel, I dyed the elastics, strapping and powernet pink which I think was the right choice!  If you've never tried dying your own fabric or notions I would highly recommend it, it's so much fun!

I've got matching underwear cut and elastic dyed, so hopefully they'll aldo be finished soon!

Anyway, it's good to be back!  I'm not making any promises about how frequently I'll be blogging but I hope its not 11 months between posts again!

Birthday Giveaway!

So I turned 23 yesterday, I'm pleased to say that overall 22 was a great year.  I think the past twelve months have really given me a chance to get to know myself better.  It sure has thrown up some challenges however I've come into 23 much stronger, healthier and happier than I went into 22.

Saying that I think my highlight of the year came last week when I nailed the splits at yoga.

I also got Gertie's books for my birthday.  I seriously can't wait to get stuck into them, I think I have about twenty things I want to make from them already!  While I haven't gotten too stuck into them just yet I love how well they are made.  Spiral bound books really are wonderful!

I mean just look at how wonderful they are.

Seriously can't wait to get stuck in, just look at this dress!

Anyway onto the giveaway....  It's no secret I'm a massive fan of Susan of Measure Twice, Cut Once's bra kits.  I've made my very first bra and a stunning Watson from her kits and can't speak highly enough of them and today I'm sharing the birthday love and giving you a chance to have one of your own.

The best bit is you get your choice between a purple or blue kit.  I'm seriously in love with them both.

All you have to do to enter is leave a comment stating which colour you'd prefer and a way for me to contact you and you're entered. Saying that I would love it if you'd follow me either on Bloglovin', Facebook or Instagram.

Details - Giveaway is open worldwide, entries close April 23rd 2016

Disclaimer - This giveaway was not sponsored, I purchased the kits myself, I'm just a serious fan wanting to share the love :). Seriously check them out.

(Black) Betty Bra

So if I thought it was appropriate to swear on my blog I would.  That is how much I love this bra.  It's safe to say this is a new favourite.

I mentioned at the end of my last post that I was working on a bra using one of Erin's kits from her store, The Emerald Studio.  I purchased a black bra tulle kit and honestly can't rave about it enough.  There is plenty of fabric in the kit, buy plenty I mean I'll be able to make another bra or matching panties without worrying about running out of fabric.  To be honest I'm leaning towards the matching panties but I'm not sure what pattern just yet, more about that later.

For this bra I revisited the Marlborough pattern by Orange Lingerie.  This time I made a 36C (the same size as my Boylstons) and the fit is much better than my previous attempts with this pattern. I modified the curve of the lower up slightly to remove some of the pointyness I had experienced previously and as a result I am much happier with the shape of this cup.  It's resulted in a more rounded, more modern style which I prefer.

I was heavily inspired by Erin's Black Beauty Bra when choosing what to make.  I fell in love the the double straps and tried to recreate them here.  I also should have purchased this kit was a small findings kit, however I didn't know what I was making at the time.  Thankfully I already had a stash of FOE elastic on hand which was easy to substitute.  

This was my first time sewing with Bra Tulle and I think I'm converted.  I was prepared for my machine to try and it it and for it to be a nightmare to sew however it was the total opposite.  It was a dream to sew, my machine loved it, I loved it.  It only postage wasn't such a killer!  I used a double layer with opposing stretch and felt incredibly well supported when I wore it.  Of course my cup size isn't large but I can't recommend it highly enough for my size.  This bra did feel quite tight when I wore it yesterday however it did loosen throughout the day so with a few more wears it should be prefect.

One other thing I love about the bra tulle is the detail that appears with the double layer.  It might be my favourite detail in this bra.  I seriously love it.

As for a matching set I'm tossing up between a Watson, either completely from Bra Tulle or a bra tulle front and powernet back or a pattern with a ruched back like Ohhh Lulu's Lola.  I'm tossing up if I can modify something or just need to buy a new pattern, I'm leaning towards buying a new pattern, I think I do need to branch out from making Watsons all. the. time.

Anyway, if you're thinking about buying a bra tulle, or any other kit from Erin do it.  You will not regret it.

What new fabrics and products have you fallen in love with?

The Joan Bra

I was super excited when Erin opened her store.  I've fallen in love with so many of her bras it just isn't funny.  Of course postage to Australia from Canada is rather prohibitive.  The wonderful Karin of Mrs Weaver's Finest Unmentionables just happened to be visiting and offered to bring some wonderful goodies over for me and save me a fortune in postage.  We had a wonderful lunch and it was so lovely to catch up with an online friend!

Today I'm pleased to share the first bra I made using the small red bra kit.  I purchases a few kits so you'll see some others coming up when I get around to making them :)

So I'm just a little in love with this bra.  I'm calling it my Joan Bra as I may have been watching too much Mad Men over the past few weeks and this just reminds me of Joan.

I used Orange Lingerie's Boylston Bra pattern for this bra.  For a number of reasons, I really love the balconette style, I wanted to try it without foam and I've nearly nailed the fit.  I'm pleased to report I think I love it more without foam than with.  It still gives a lovely shape under tshirts.

I fully lined the cups, bridge and frame with the stretch mesh included in the kit.  It probably wasn't really required but I'm pleased with the results overall.  It also allowed me to fully enclose all the seams which I think gives a really professional finish to the bra.

As far as general fit goes, now that I nearly have the cup fit sorted there aren't many fit issues there, especially none that I am worried about at this point in time given this was the first time I had worked with this fabric.  I did find that the band seemed a little tight however that seems to have eased now that I've worn it a few times.

I also used Erin's Bliss Wires for this bra.  I quite like them but I'm not convinced the fit is perfect for me, they are certainly wearable but not perfect.  Saying that I do love the way the sit flat at the bridge.  I'm sure I'll use them again.

The little details like the topstitching and the bows are what just make bra making so much fun in my books.  Something so practical and so pretty all at once and the best bit is its all handmade.  Seriously nothing can be better than that.

Overall I'm incredibly happy with it and can't wait to use the other kits I bought from Erin.  I'm trying to work out how to make this one into a matching set, I'm sure I'll come up with something but if you have any suggestions please let me know :)

Vintage Floral Boylston Bra

So, I'm in love.  Like totally and utterly in love.  I finally finished by first Boylston Bra.  By finally I mean it was finished about a week and a half ago but I had to wait for the right length underwires to arrive before it was finished.  

I made a 36C of this pattern and I'm pleased to report it fits!  Not 100%, I think there is a fraction too much fabric in the upper cup but still 100% wearable and I don't think I'm taking it off anytime soon! It is just so comfortable.  Love, love, love.  The only thing I noticed when taking the photos is how unbalanced the pattern is on the cups, however given how amazingly comfortable it is I don't really care!

This was my first time making foam cups.  I used this tutorial from Cloth Habit with great success.  The process was really rather straight forward, much more so than I had initially thought it would be. I'm so pleased with how they turned out.

I'm sure if you've read my blog before you will recognise this fabric.  It is one of my all time favourites.  I've already used it to make a romper and a Watson Bra Set. I only bought 1.15m of this fabric, even though it was 150cm wide I'm still impressed.  One of my favourite things about lingerie sewing and bra making is how little fabric things take.  To be honest I think I can even sneak another bra out of this fabric too. If you don't want to go back and read, this is a stretch thick crepe like material I picked up from my local Lincraft.

I lined the bridge and cradle with one way stretch mesh.  I also put a layer of one way stretch mesh in the straps so they didn't stretch out too much. Especially as this fabric is designed for no stretch fabric. I'm also sold on the fabric straps. I'm totally in love with the pattern, seriously.

And whats the point of making your own bras if you don't make matching underwear?  Of course me being me whipped up a pair of my favourite Watson Bikini. I love the fit of them, they're just right for me.  It is hard trying other patterns when you've found one that is so good.

Anyway this might just be my new favourite set.  It is my new favourite bra anyway.  I'm hoping to turn the Boylston into a longline and a bikini top before too long. If I get time to sew that is.

What have you been sewing lately?

Emma

Bra Pattern : Boylston Bra by Orange Lingerie

Underwear Pattern : Watson Bikini by Cloth Habit

Fabric : Lincraft

Elastics & Hardware : Booby Traps

Underwires : SewSquirrel

Sierra Bra

Something a little different today, when I first saw the Sierra Bra (a free pattern by Madalynne) I liked the look of it but I wasn't sure if it would look any good on me or be supportive enough to wear for more than short periods of time. I'm pleased to say I have been pleasantly surprised.

The pattern was really easy to sew up, to be honest the hardest part of the whole process was tracking down lace that was wide enough.  I couldn't find anything locally and had to order online, not that I'm really worried by that :).  I ordered this amazing navy lace from Booby Traps, it is super wide (25cm) and utterly gorgeous! 

The only change I made to the pattern of the Sierra was the strap placement.  The pattern uses a halter strap, however I just don't find it practical, so I just made normal straps and attached them onto the back piece.  I dyed the elastic (Rit dye - 1tsp Scarlet & 1tsp Taupe in 4 cups water) to this peachy colour.  It didn't come out quite as I wanted, I think its too much taupe so if I was trying to dye a peach colour again I would add a little more red.

I mean seriously though I just can't get over this lace.  The scalloping is to die for and it looks amazing on.  Like seriously amazing.  Love, love, love!  It might be rivaling this set as my all time fave.  The only issue is it's a touch too small, like an inch or two, but as I've just joined the gym I'm hoping I can get the fit better.

As you can tell I left the lace unlined, partly because I didn't have any appropriately coloured powernet, only white and nude neither of which would have been ideal for this bra, and partly because I like the lace plain. 

I also made a Watson Bikini.  I think this might be my go to underwear pattern.  Well maybe this and Betty, I still have a thing for high waisted underwear. I made a large which is the prefect size, the XL I made previously had a bit too much height at the front whereas this one is perfect.  I especially adore the scallops at the top, I think they make this pair!

Anyway, I recommend checking out the Sierra pattern if you have a smaller bust, especially as it is free.  I seriously doubt that I'm going to get over my navy addiction any time soon.  Though is there anything wrong with having a navy addiction.  It is such an amazing colour!

I'm sure there will be more Sierras in my future, in fact I already have another one cut out.  I'm also contemplating buying more of this lace, just cause it is that amazing in person.  Time will tell about that though!

What have you been sewing lately?

Emma :)

Patterns - Sierra Bra by Madalynne & Watson Bikini by Cloth Habit

Fabric - Booby Traps

Elastics - Lincraft & Booby Traps dyed using Rit Dye

Marvellous Mint Milliskin Marlborough & Watson Bikini

I purchased a couple of Watson Bra kits from Greys Fabrics a month or so back.  I bought one in white and one in pink and only got around to getting into one of them earlier this week.  I started with the white kit, but white is boring.  I've also got quite a collection of Watsons going on so I decided I needed to try another Marlborough.

Anyway, I started by cutting out the pieces of my Marlborough, a 38B this time.  Last time I made a 38A and the fit wasn't right so I tried a different size this time, however more on the fit later.

After I'd cut all my pieces I threw them in a dye bath with some Teal Rit Dye.  Head. Over. Heels. with the colour.  It ended up the prefect shade of mint.  The elastics came out a bit more blue, as did the powernet but it all ties in well, especially with the rigid lace!  The only issue is some small parts of the fabric didn't appear to absorb the dye as well as the rest of it.  There are some small imperfections but I had read about this happening so I knew it was a possibility.  Thankfully I'm not too worried about them.

Everything included with the kit appears high quality, I mean I won't really know until they have a bit of wear, but all signs are looking good to start with.  The lace for the upper cup is the same as I used in my first Marlborough.  I'm a bit in love with it.  Thankfully the dyed milliskin ended up a great match!

As I said before, I cut a 38B this time, the cups on my previous Marlborough just weren't right.  Saying that I'm not sure the cups on this one are that much better.  I don't seem to fill them but I also appear to be spilling out the top. I used the same underwires, but they fit well and appear to be the exact same as my well fitting RTW bras. I'm not sure if I'm going crazy but I have a feeling that the shape of my breast might not be suited to the shape of the Marlborough.  I'm not ready to give up any time soon, but I'm thinking about trying a new pattern next time.

I'm also going to be honest and say I had a bit of a struggle ensuring that there were no puckers when I attached the underwire casing, I sewed and unpicked and sewed and unpicked and it is still far from perfect.  I'm trying to believe that finished is better than perfect, at least in this case! Again I added a little blue rose, best $5 I've spent in a long time!

The back is powernet (also dyed, you can notice the difference in the colour and the way the fabric has reacted).  I used the three hook closure from the kit.  I do find it a little strange that the pattern requires a three hook closure when my cup size is so small.  It's not an issue, just an observation.

I lined the cup and bridge and all the seams are enclosed. The lining (one way stretch) was also dyed and it came out a similar colour to the elastics and casing.  It's funny how the different fabrics react differently and result in different colours.

I also covered the side seams with some underwire casing. You will also notice that the casing is a different colour, I didn't dye enough so I had to make do.  Thankfully no one will notice it. Especially as it can't be seen from the outside.

I made a matching Watson Bikini.  As I've said before, this is my new favourite underwear pattern so it was an easy choice.  The elastics are of course from the Greys Fabric kit.  The milliskin makes them lovely to wear and the little rose just adds a bit of a feature to it.

Anyway overall I'm still thrilled with this set and can't wait to get some use out of it.  I plan on working to perfect the fit, while trying another pattern in the mean time.  I'm leaning towards a Bolyston Bra, but who knows, I'm likely to change my mind.

What have you been sewing this week?

Emma

Sequin & Velvet Bra Collection

I'm just going to start by sating I love this collection.  As in head over heels.  This collections was inspired by this set by Ohhh Lulu.  I had sequins left over from a pencil skirt I made (which I apparently haven't blogged!) and when I stumbled upon Sarah's set on Pinterest I knew I had found its calling.  Then what I found navy stretch velvet on my last trip to East Coast Fabrics it was serendipitous.

As you can see I made two bras and two sets of knickers with this combination of fabric.  Can you tell I'm a little obsessed?  The bras are a Watson Bra by Cloth Habit and a Jasmine Bralette by Ohhh Lulu and the knickers are Grace and Betty both by Ohhh Lulu.

I had myself psyched up for these being awful to sew, thankfully the process went smoother than I had expected.  I pinned a lot, which is something I never normally do, and I do think it helped.

Jasmine was the first piece of this set I made.  I find this pattern really easy to sew, I think that its mainly due to the fact there are only four pieces that need to be sewn together to end up with a completed bralette.  

There were a few more pieces for this Jasmine, purely because I lined the sequins so I could enclose the seams.  Lets face it sequins on skin are scratchy,  To get all the seams enclosed I followed these instructions in the Watson Bikini Sew Along.  Obviously these weren't crotch seams but I've used this method a number of times now and it always pays off.  It gives a much nicer finish than exposed seams.  I didn't enclose the side seams but I'm not too fussed, I don't see this bra being worn all the time, it's definitely not an everyday bra.

I think this is my favourite Watson to date, but I'm not really sure I want to commit to that.  I mean it's hard to compete with this one and this one. Once again I made my standard 38A, in the longline version, however this one seems a little snug, still wearable, but a little tighter than normal, though I think I know the causes of that.

I think the snugness of this bra is due to a few factors.  Firstly I removed all give in the front of the bra by lining it with one way stretch mesh.  The bands are also lined with powernet as I did not think the velvet would be able to cope with the constant stretch.  The closure is also only two hooks in length not three and I honestly think that would make all the difference in the world. I plan on changing it when I can get my hands on one.  I have to order them online as no one in town seems to stock them.

The other change I made with this version in the addition of some boning along the side seams.  I've found my other Watson longline tends to ride up so the addition of boning should prevent this.Thankfully this was an easy addition but I do think it also contributed to the snugness of the band.

My favourite bit of this bra is the little rosette in the centre.  I think it makes it.

Grace by Ohhh Lulu was actually the first underwear pattern I bought.  While I've since discovered other patterns I love more this one will always hold a special place in my heart.  I used the same method as I did for the Jasmine Bra to enclose the seams.  The trickiest bit of this whole set was actually attaching the fold over elastic, it really isn't prefect, especially over the sequins but overall I'm still happy with it.

Until I tried the Watson Bikini I would have sworn Ohhh Lulu's Betty High Waisted Knickers was my favourite underwear pattern.  I think it still is to a degree.  Thankfully these turned out as I had expected and I'm pleased I chose to add them to this set.  I love the feel of high waisted underwear and a longline bra.  I think it might be my favourite combination so there was no way these weren't being included in this collection.

You probably deserve a medal if you made it to the end of this post.  There were just too many photos and I couldn't pick.  I hope you love this little mix and match set as much as I do.  I can't wait to break it out sometimes.

I now just need to come up with my next epic project.  So far its a quilt for a wedding present in May next year, so I have heaps of time (famous last words!). I'm also keen to try another Marlborough so we will have to see what inspiration hits.

Emma :)

Bra Patterns - Watson Bra by Cloth Habit and a Jasmine Bralette by Ohhh Lulu

Underwear Patterns - Grace and Betty by Ohhh Lulu

Fabric - Sequins about 18 months ago (for $10/m) from Spotlight, Velvet from East Coast Fabrics

Elastics & Hardwear - Stash a mix of Lincraft and Booby Traps